We left our Arizona home on a Monday morning heading for northern Arizona. We used a couple new to us apps in an attempt to find a boondocking spot without much success. Our first night out due to the large number of rigs/people camping on BLM and USFS land, was spent in a gravel pit with gorgeous views–it will do!
It was a chilly morning, we drew straws as to who had to get out of bed to start the coffee and the furnace. After a leisurely morning we headed for our ATVing destination–Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument (pronounced PAIR-uh-shont) in north western Arizona right on the border at St. George, Utah. The Monument is over 1 million acres in size making it nearly as large as the Grand Canyon National Park. But, the Grand Canyon sees about 6 million visitors per year, Parashant sees about 77,000 per year–big difference! Parashant is unusual in that it is administered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the USFS and the National Park Service.
In early March I happened to read an article in a August, 2022 issue of the magazine Arizona Highways about Parashant National Monument. The article stated, “As one of the last truly wild places in the American Southwest, it offers zero cell service and road conditions range from “rough” to “extremely rough.” The Monument stresses preparedness–you will need a high clearance, four wheel drive vehicle with all terrain tires–not street tires. The Monument recommends you take not one but two spare tires, and a jack that will work in rocky or sandy surfaces. Other recommendations include taking more food and water than you think you might need as well as a GPS device of some sort–we used ONX. It is recommended you not travel alone and that you leave a detailed itinerary with someone who knows when to expect you back. I for one felt very confident–we travel with three men who can fix anything and pack along a lot of tools to do that fixing!
There are no amenities in this Monument–there is a guest ranch deep within the park but that’s the only lodging. There is no gas station, no dining options, nothing! We were intrigued as were our ATVing friend from Montana who were game to meet us in northern Arizona for this adventure and hopefully some warmer weather.
Our job was to find a camping spot hopefully at least 20 miles into the Monument. The Grand Canyon overlooks and other sites are deep within the Monument making for long driving days. Unfortunately we found the road leading into the park way too rough to take the RVs more than five miles in.
Every state wants to get their $$$ and I had preordered OHV (off highway vehicle) Arizona stickers for everyone. Nowhere on any website did I find any reference to a fee for entering any portion of Parashant. Take note of the next photo–
The gang got up bright and early to travel through Salt Lake City in the wee hours of the morning. They arrived, set up their rigs and we took a short ATV ride before supper–
We knew it was almost 80 miles to one of Parashant’s most famous overlooks–that meant Friday’s ride would be over 160 miles round trip. Much of the travel was on wide, very well used rough gravel/rock/sand roads–we traveled 45mph for miles and miles on these road each of the five days we rode in the side by sides. There are many privately owned out holding ranches within this park which was established in 2000. The BLM land within the park is leased to ranchers as summer pasture for cattle. So, the main roads were busy not only with people doing the same thing we were doing but with local traffic–and it was dusty!
The really rough–need two spare tires–part of the road didn’t happen until we were within six miles of the Toraweap overlook on the north side of the Grand Canyon. And that overlook took our breath away–some more than others due to height intolerance and no guard rails anywhere!! This view is why we rode 80 miles one way!
Now back to the photo of the sign above–the part where it states, “advance permit required.” A very friendly, eager volunteer stopped our vehicles at the “entrance” to Toraweap to tell us that almost two years ago the Park Service had created an advance fee, $2 per vehicle, only 30 vehicles per day were allowed out on the Toraweap overlook–the only site in the Park managed by the National Park Service. The volunteer immediately put our fears to rest by saying, “you will still be allowed in,” but in the future you will need that $2 permit. Whew!
We were without cell service almost the entire time we were in the Park boundaries. We could make calls, send and receive texts at the campsite but internet surfing had to wait until we were on the road heading to Montana. I searched the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument website–no mention anywhere of a fee. I finally found reference to this vehicle limiting fee in an obscure spot under the “Plan Your Visit” tab. Not under the “Fees” tab where it should have been. Good grief!
Saturday and Sunday we traveled 102 and 172 miles respectively seeing deep canyons, wide vistas, red rock bluffs, old mining sites and wildflowers. It was windy Saturday but on Sunday it was windy and COLD–dang COLD! I was wearing every stitch of clothing I had with me and was still cold.
On Monday we rode 174 miles to find Twin Points, another overlook into the Grand Canyon on the north rim. And one of the best parts–at every overlook we visited there were no people!! Maybe one other vehicle at each site. So unlike the south rim of the Grand Canyon.
And on Tuesday we saved the best for last, Whitmore Canyon overlook. We took a little side trip to a line shack named Pa’s Pocket, used by cattlemen in days past. And our GPS program failed us, showing a loop road on the map. There was no loop road, it had been closed by the BLM a long time ago judging by the terrain.
So, we backtracked and when Peggy stepped out of their side by side at Whitmore Canon overlook to take in the view, she said, “oh guys, we saved the best for last.” And she was so right!
The view took your breath away–literally if you have a fear of heights. I have wanted to visit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon for years. It finally happened, took a little bit of driving but the miles of dusty, rocky, rough roads were worth every minute. The scenery was stunning everywhere you looked. I am so glad we took this trip and so very glad the Montana gang joined us. I’m leaving these photos full size as this spot was so spectacular–
At the Whitmore Canyon overlook we were 1000 feet above the river and could see rafters on the river (with binoculars). The Bar 10 guest ranch flies a helicopter into the Canyon to retrieve weary rafters looking for a comfortable bed. And there is an airstrip near the Bar 10 operated by the BLM I think.
A trip of a lifetime, we had the best time! Evenings were spent grilling, serving up the most delicious food and visiting. We did grow weary of all those miles but as I said above, it was worth every minute!
Two rigs headed out on Wednesday, both toward Montana. There had been one heck of a spring snowstorm in Montana closing I-90 on the Bozeman Pass for almost 24 hours. People were stranded in their vehicles on the pass for 12 to 15 hours. The road was so blocked by the massive amount of snow and the wind plus truckers who ignored “chains required” signs that rescue services used ATVs to reach people to provide food, water and blankets. We managed to miss this disaster but another sort of disaster was awaiting us at home.
First issue–there was still about 6 inches of snow in our driveway and we were not able to get the RV up our steep driveway. The RV spent a couple days all by itself at the foot of our driveway. And then the disaster–We never leave the water pump on in our house when gone for any length of time. Without the pump no water can flow into the house if there should be a pipe breakage. Our house is heated all winter, pipes should not break. The Cowboy turned on the water Thursday evening after we arrived and water was suddenly everywhere in one room of the basement. We obviously had a broken pipe or plural broken pipes. The Cowboy managed to get one sink and two toilets working that night–no shower. On Friday he repaired a broken pipe in the guest bath shower–which is accessed through an opening behind paneling in the wall of the basement stairs!! Which meant he had to build scaffolding before he could even begin repairs!!
As I am writing this blog the pipes to the master bath shower are being repaired–they were easier to access. What a mess and we have no idea why this happened!!
We’ve been talking about dogs and puppies for a while now. We have talked about how much more freedom we have without a pet. But, we realized we love dogs more than we love our freedom. So, on the way home, the breeder met us in Butte, Montana and we brough Kayce home with us. She is a 12+ week old mini schnauzer who so far seems to have been potty trained by the breeder–no accidents. She is a puppy, sharp teeth, full of energy and trouble–and we are so glad to have her in our lives. She has four white feet, a white blaze on her chest and a smattering of white hairs under her chin–so, so cute!
And last but not least–many of you saw the northern lights on Friday and Saturday night–we slept through them. The lights were even visible in Arkansas and in our county in Arizona. This photo was taken by our Montana friend Sarah and she graciously allowed me to share.
Happy Mother’s Day and have a great week! Life is indeed so good!